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Post by danielc on Mar 9, 2013 18:24:40 GMT -5
I have always liked traps that were less "deadly" and more about slowing down the party.
Example: Gluefoot traps. A glue that hardens when exposed to air. Person steps on the trap breaking the clay tile and their shoe/boot is glued to the floor. Not a killer, but yes, a real pain in the ...
Another is traps that trigger gates to lock or doors to bolt into place. They have to either find another way around or make lots of noise hacking their way pat the "trap" but again, it does not kill them so much as slow them down.
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Minis
Mar 9, 2013 18:03:53 GMT -5
Post by danielc on Mar 9, 2013 18:03:53 GMT -5
Has anyone successfully made a mold of a bought mini to duplicate it? I have a personal issue with people who do this. It is a theft of someone elses IP when you do this. It is wrong. And we should not promote this on the forum in my opinion. Coolstuffinc.com has some nice stuff. I just got Cadwallon: City of Thieves Painted Miniatures Set A and B from them. Very nice pre painted minis. Yep, bought the same sets few weeks ago. They had them when no one else did other and an ebay seller who wanted $50 each. If they have it, Coolstuffinc has good prices. EDIT: Added Link
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Post by danielc on Mar 5, 2013 14:59:17 GMT -5
Use sheets of styrene. Cut them out and run a file along the edge to give it a blade. Then primer and paint to spec. You can get styrene sheets quite cheaply too.
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Post by danielc on Mar 5, 2013 14:56:52 GMT -5
I have to agree with the others, this tile looks better than mine. I look forward to seeing your final product.
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Post by danielc on Mar 5, 2013 1:31:36 GMT -5
Check out my videos on reworking some cheap minis. Very well done. I gave it a like. As I said in my comment I would add the shield if you want these to be more like "fighters" but leave the shield off if you want them to be more like cultists. Either way, well done. ;D
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Post by danielc on Mar 4, 2013 0:34:12 GMT -5
"^^^" is a way of saying they agree with the comment above them.
As for polystyrene, I have had luck with "painting on a layer or two of watered down white glue first. Then use spray paint or what ever paint you want to .
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Post by danielc on Mar 4, 2013 0:23:09 GMT -5
Very Nice Work. Well done.
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Post by danielc on Mar 3, 2013 1:13:42 GMT -5
spiralbound, you might want to change the links to a photo shareing site everyone can access. I know I would like to see the pictures as well.
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Post by danielc on Mar 1, 2013 1:26:12 GMT -5
Very nice pictures. I love that I can now see them.
Well done.
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Post by danielc on Feb 25, 2013 17:51:47 GMT -5
Ok, my being Grumpy was not ment to be taken serious. But my point is, I don't try and find equivalences to the gridworld. The whole point of my post was to say don't try. Rather I fall back on my wargame experience and run combat more like I did in that world. So reach: I would follow one of two paths, but only one of the two not mix them. Either I would measure 1" out from the base and allow attacks at that "reach" or shift to a base to base requirement and allow 10' reach weapons to hit at 1" out. Neither is "right" or "wrong" but each will have its posative and negative issues. On my table I follow the base touching for the 5' reach and the 1" out for the 10' reach. But I also follow the school of thought that we just don't worry too much about the "slight" differences. Just like we did when playing our wargames. Hope that helps clear my thoughts up.
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Post by danielc on Feb 25, 2013 11:02:51 GMT -5
I know I am about to be grumpy old man, but here it goes.
Either you are gridless and there is no such thing as "diagonal" or you are playing with a grid.
If a weapon reaches 10' then it reaches 10'. There is no worry about diagonal in a gridless world.
Same goes for movement etc. If you keep going back to the grid to reason out what is and is not, you are really playing with a grid.
[grumpy old man goes back to the rocker and sits down.]
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Post by danielc on Feb 24, 2013 23:56:54 GMT -5
I'm a big fan of the black pudding. Howed you make it. I didn't make these, but to quote Velcro Zipper, the guy who made all these:
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Post by danielc on Feb 24, 2013 11:28:58 GMT -5
Yes, once the whole table agrees to the rule going forward it helps curb arguments later.
I also think that if the GM is consistant in how they handle a rule, it helps keep table arguments to a minimum.
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Post by danielc on Feb 24, 2013 2:40:33 GMT -5
After playing War Games for years using clear templates and selecting what is hit etc, I really do not understand why this is any different. It might allow a few more figures to be hit but in the end, it should not be a sorce of a lot of issues.
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Post by danielc on Feb 23, 2013 22:51:48 GMT -5
I use the 50% of the base call.
To be honest I hated the grid "burst" grid just because of the odd misses such as V&Y in the 20ft. Blast. Going gridless makes the burst seem closer to what I imagine a real spell burst would be. Of course that is just my opinion. :-)
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Post by danielc on Feb 23, 2013 22:41:57 GMT -5
omg that is just too awesome!!! What materials did you use and paint? Ok, first I want to be clear: I did not do these. I was just impressed by some of his work thus I put up the link. In the thread he tells you what DDM figure he based his conversion on. As for the paint he used I am unsure.
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Post by danielc on Feb 22, 2013 16:55:21 GMT -5
...Stand up and tell me if your physical, vertical body takes up 5 feet of space. It doesn't. You clearly did not see how much I put on durring the Holiday Season.... ;D On a more serious note: I think if you elect to go gridless, you also elect to a level of "fudge: when it comes to those few game mechanics designed for grids. Flanking is one of those that you just have to accept some "grey" in the GM call. Some things get better with the gray, some don't. But in the end I believe there is more gained then lost buy going gridless.
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Post by danielc on Feb 22, 2013 12:08:24 GMT -5
So I had some fun this week. I set aside some time for a "Re-Baseing Day". I re-based several figures I had here in my figure box. They included some Dreamblade, WoW, and Mage Knight figures.
I am also trying out two new bases. One is the wood bases from Litko and another is the small green bases from Warlord Games (50 for $5).
My friend is going to come over with his Camera and we shall have photos for you to see later on.
I do have to say that I love re-basing, but so far I have yet to discover a base that I like as much as the original D&D bases.
Daniel
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Post by danielc on Feb 22, 2013 1:04:08 GMT -5
They say Barbie has everything; now I believe it. LOL
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Post by danielc on Feb 21, 2013 13:52:11 GMT -5
I love things like this. I think he makes a great Dragon Figure. Well done.
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Post by danielc on Feb 21, 2013 13:41:47 GMT -5
So you don't count the minis in the Dungeon Command sets? Including the new sculpts? Or does it only count when they are random? Randomized/opened packs. Not many of the Dungeon Command minis are making it onto eBay or gaming store shelves as individuals. Can't speak for gaming store shelves but I saw and still see them on ebay. Also several of the ebay sellers have them in their ebay stores. That is how I added two more Trolls to my collection just a few weeks ago.
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Post by danielc on Feb 20, 2013 12:05:33 GMT -5
Has anyone made 6" sticks that are 8"? Hah. What I mean is, I would think you'd want a place to hold it and still have 6" sticking out. If I took the time to copy Hasinbad's beautiful results, I might use a darker stain just on the extra 2" handle part. Or, am I over-thinking it? I don't think you are over-thinking it at all. If that makes it easier for you to play, then add the space to hold it. But to be honest, I have not found a need to add more space to hold it. It seems to work just fine as is. In any case, have fun.
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Post by danielc on Feb 20, 2013 12:03:06 GMT -5
I went ahead and ordered one to try it out. I will take pictures and let you guys see it once it arrive. Ok, I received my horse from Litko. I will not be buying any more. The horse looked more like a large dog next to the minis and the flat hose looked odd. So I will be following DMScotty's lead and mounting some horses on bike stands with space for the mini to stand on the base as well.
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Post by danielc on Feb 20, 2013 11:57:00 GMT -5
yes unfortunatly the quit making the official D&D minis due to them not making enough profit on them......stupid hasbro So you don't count the minis in the Dungeon Command sets? Including the new sculpts? Or does it only count when they are random?
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Post by danielc on Feb 18, 2013 13:33:15 GMT -5
Does anyone use clear, flockless bases? Or do you handle versatility another way? I handle the various flocking by just saying "I don't care". I have bought painted and finished minis, PPMs, Raw Metal I painted, amoung others. The range of finish goes from the black bases of the PPMs to bases just painted brown (1980's) to sand (1990s) to small static grass. And when you add in the Painted metal I have bought from folks the colors range from almot white (snow) to super dark brown with tan static grass. As I own so many I am not about to try and make all my bases match. So I just realized, like so many other things on the table, the mini is just a place holder and the real image is in my mind.
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Post by danielc on Feb 18, 2013 0:20:08 GMT -5
Didn't they stop making minis? They still sell minis in their games. The new Dungeon Command have PPMs in them and their larger games (three I believe) have unpainted minis. PS: Board Game Geek has pictures of all the various minis for the sets released.
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Post by danielc on Feb 14, 2013 15:04:51 GMT -5
I figure my NPCs can just sleep on the floor until it is time for them to be killed for their gold and XP. Serious, it might be a good video to also discuss various options that could be used for building other items for the dungeon as well. Bookshelves for the Necromancer, tourture racks, tables, alters, etc.
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Post by danielc on Feb 12, 2013 17:03:39 GMT -5
Cool! You should have entitled the session, "Stepping Off The Grid". ;-) Hahahahaha I like that.
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Post by danielc on Feb 12, 2013 0:19:20 GMT -5
The thing we tend to forget is how easy gridded play is. A mat and a few wet-erase markers, and the DM is good to go! Using those tools, running a game takes practically no time beyond whatever campaign creation/purchasing takes. Your point is well taken, but as I used a roll of butcher paper and a black marker (later I used a set of colored markers) and drew everything freehand without grids for years, I say it is just as easy using the butcher paper, no grids, and poker chips with taped on names. And we were so funny back then, thinking how cool we were. Kicking butts and takeing names. ;D
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Post by danielc on Feb 12, 2013 0:14:40 GMT -5
Does the work impressed really cover what I am feeling right now?
Your players are so lucky their GM cares to make this for them. Well Done.
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