I have been thinking of using a paint roll to base paint instead of spraying it on, would that work?
It's because that spraypaint is quite expensive and using a black paint with a paintroll will save me money and maybe even time and deffinately work space.
I have not experienced anyone base painting with a roller. A lot of people are moving to air brushes and for base painting a cheap air brush will work. Or just paint on a base coat with a paint brush - a large (for minis) paint brush
Look up dipping on YouTube - ( I will try to add a video)be careful you can't just dip with any old paint. If you are using acrylic you will need to thin it down best to buy paint made for dipping.
Two things that I know will work from experience - A large paint brush using thinned down paint - just go for it - done in about 30 seconds wait twenty minutes then do a second thin coat or an air brush.
I have not dipped but some of the historical wargammers get good results by dipping a base coat then finishing with regular techniques. If you try a roller and find a way that works - let me know I just don't think a roller would get good coverage over the whole model.
This vid is not the best just shows the type of paint I will try to find a better one. But the technique is stick the whole model in the paint then remove the excess by flipping / swinging your arm - not an inside thing.
Post by monkeywithtacos on Sept 7, 2013 16:20:34 GMT -5
A roller brush will NOT work...... Minis have too many, small and recessed areas of detail that can only be covered well via brushing or spraying (or dipping, but it's seriously messy). One easy way is to use Acrylic craft paints (like Apple Barrel or Plaid brand) and brush that on. Not sure how pricey it might wherever you live though. Good luck with whatever method you decide on though and keep in mind, use several thin coats when you paint rather than thick ones....
~Monkey with Tacos
"I'm great at taking Initiative.....It's remembering where I put it that I am terrible at...."
Post by belatucadras on Sept 8, 2013 1:02:17 GMT -5
I don't think he meant base painting minis. I think he meant tiles. One problem I foresee is drying time. The other is warping since the rolled on paint would go on much thicker and wetter then when it dries the cardboard would warp a lot.
You could use a small roller and get some interesting effects with the different rollers available for making patterns on walls.
Last Edit: Sept 8, 2013 1:04:44 GMT -5 by belatucadras
Post by monkeywithtacos on Sept 8, 2013 22:55:18 GMT -5
Shouldn't be an issue... I use sponges to put on the color for my tiles...I haven't tried undercoating them that way though, but I can vouch for the effectiveness with the color coats.....
Point of fact, I have yet to use a can of the "texture' paints on any of my tiles.... mainly due to price...I may grab a can or two when I do my cave tiles for the extra texture, but otherwise I doubt I'll use any..
~Monkey with Tacos
"I'm great at taking Initiative.....It's remembering where I put it that I am terrible at...."
Most textured paints are just latex (if we're discussing 'textured house paints'...) with sand added to them. It is very easy to make yourself. I went to a nearby grade school, picked up a plastic sandwich bag full of sand. I've been using it for a while now. I just add sand to the acrylic paint, in a disposable Dixie cup, mix, and brush on with a cheap "school paint brush" (typically, 30 for a dollar, at Wal-Mart), as the sand is highly abrasive, and it will damage the bristles on a good brush. The sand will stay put, quite well, when dry. If concerned, just apply a second coat of straight paint, same color.
An alternate method, is to paint on PVA/White Glue, with the same brushes. Be sure to spread the glue evenly, then dunk the 'painted' object into a bowl containing sand, making sure to cover the entire 'painted' surface with sand; then tap it on the edge of the bowl to remove the loose sand, and let it dry for several hours. After that, just paint -- again, with a 'school paint brush', to avoid damaging a valuable brush. This is not as effective as the paint-sand mixture (it is more prone to bald spots), but it works. Cheers!
It is possible to apply rolled on paint in many, very thin, almost instant drying layers, it just requires a lot of time and patience and you have to do this before you glue the tile walls and such on to them. The other alternative (which I am going to try out at some point) is photo copying off a load of texture images and gluing them directly to the cardboard, instead of doing a lot of painting over large areas, just doing blending and shadow/highlight painting around walls, features, edges, etc.
I use my airbrush for undercoating. I use cheap craft paint watered down to go through the airbrush. A basic airbrush can be picked up for the cost of a couple of black spray cans. Of course propellent for the airbrush is needed. I have an air compressor but there are lots of options. This is probably the cheapest.
Testors sold a very basic, air brush kit, for around $20, that included the air brush, and the propellant aerosol can, as a package. It was only meant for painting large areas, no detail work is possible with this unit (check Michael's plastic model kit area for this unit, in the Testors paint display). I used mine, years ago, to apply Scenic Cement, as a dull-cote/sealant on my finished mini's. It worked, but I tended to apply it too thickly, and it resulted in some white pooling in the folds. I've never used it for terrain painting, but it should work, as long as you don't mind diluting the paint to run through the air brush. Cheers!
Last Edit: Oct 15, 2013 11:48:59 GMT -5 by sgtslag
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