Post by hasbinbad on Oct 9, 2012 15:05:47 GMT -5
These are some pictures that I took recently of some of the 2.5D crafts I've done using mostly DM Scotty's techniques. I used several novel techniques (explained fairly well on the imgur album), which I will hope to discuss more in depth later.
Here is the album, hosted on imgur, feel free to share:
imgur.com/a/7owcE#0
Here are the pictures:
Defending an easy access point to the innards of the volcano is a small fort of Ziltari Orcs. There will be small boats, eventually. The Lava was done with a cardboard frame into which I glued a bunch of styrofoam chunks. On top of that, I layered toilet paper soaked with watery glue. I think if I did it again, I would use layers of dry toilet paper and have a spray bottle of the glue solution instead. Trying to wring out and then unclump wet toilet paper sucks. The fences are cardstock cutouts with a zigzag line xacto'd. The stairs are really just a ramp made with cardstock (there are individual pieces, but it does add much depth) and painted to look more 3D. The rest is done 100% with DM Scotty's techniques.
This is an example of how easy it can be to set up a dynamic, unique forest using DM Scotty's techniques. I basically threw the pieces out on the mat randomly. The rules for my terrain are simple, and make encounters really fun with people trying to interact with dense forest elements.
This is a forest scene with a river quickly drawn onto the map. I then positioned 2 "embankment" terrain pieces, and it makes the whole scene rather more convincing IMHO. The embankments are done with play sand (fine, very even grain) for the brown "dirt" parts and construction sand (course, many different size/shape grains) for the green "grass" parts. I will be painting these pieces further. I kind of rushed them because I had a game.
Same as the last, but this time with MONSTERS!!
You can sort of see that I basepainted black and worked the color up with no less than 4 shades of drybrushing (3 for the rocks), but like I said, I rushed, so ended up doing some wet blending on accident (which actually did come out fairly well) and the final drybrush of shamrock green was super sloppy.
This is the "The Lava Tubes" dungeon tile set. Everything but the Lava technique (I'll discuss in a different pic) is from the 2.5D DM's Craft techniques invented by DM Scotty. Bottom entrance; top passage leads to "The Lava Grotto," a piece I haven't started on yet. The two lava tiles in the middle do connect, but only under the wall in either room, which would require swimming in lava. The pieces with lava on them don't have walls. This was originally a mistake I made on one of the tiles with lava, so I just carried it over and decided that that's the way lava tiles would be.
The topmost lava tile (small one, with a stone circle on it). will be hidden from the players until "if they get to the second stepping stone." The three stepping stones in the adjacent tile are just "south" of a 10' lava fall (which means the lava flows from the left side of the picture, bends "north", and the lavafall is somewhat nor by northwestish). There will be so much steam coming up that players will only be able to see what is down there if they are directly above it. There will of course be treasure, and they will of course be able to fairly easily jump down and get it, but what then I ask you? What then?
If I were to do these lava effects again, I would take more time drying. The technique is thus: Lay down your glue gun texture for like a river or something (messy) for wherever you want lava (cooled or fast moving), dries fast, but let it cool for at least 15 minutes. You'll go through several smaller glue sticks on a good sized area. Then, apply flexible modelling paste to the dried glue area (and any exposed cardboard) using a wider brush and a fair amount of material, and use a slapping, tapping motion to create little peaks and ripples with the texture (you'll see "it" start to happen, then just use "that" much paste over the tile). Let this completely dry (at least 4 hours). basecoat white, and follow DM Scotty's techniques to paint firey stuff, BUT at the end where you go over stuff with BLACK, do the VARNISHING FIRST (let it DRY first), and THEN do your black overcoat, the flat looks like cooled lava on top of the firey shiney lava. I DIDNT LET MY VARNISH DRY ENOUGH, so it looks kind of crappy, but you can see a few places where it's not so bad. I might end up repainting this whole tile set because i got one tile wet , soooo but yeah, that's how you do lava.
I mean, you just can't do this with dwarven forge or wargaming terrain. You just can't. Your move, "the entire tabletop industry."
Here is the album, hosted on imgur, feel free to share:
imgur.com/a/7owcE#0
Here are the pictures:
Defending an easy access point to the innards of the volcano is a small fort of Ziltari Orcs. There will be small boats, eventually. The Lava was done with a cardboard frame into which I glued a bunch of styrofoam chunks. On top of that, I layered toilet paper soaked with watery glue. I think if I did it again, I would use layers of dry toilet paper and have a spray bottle of the glue solution instead. Trying to wring out and then unclump wet toilet paper sucks. The fences are cardstock cutouts with a zigzag line xacto'd. The stairs are really just a ramp made with cardstock (there are individual pieces, but it does add much depth) and painted to look more 3D. The rest is done 100% with DM Scotty's techniques.
This is an example of how easy it can be to set up a dynamic, unique forest using DM Scotty's techniques. I basically threw the pieces out on the mat randomly. The rules for my terrain are simple, and make encounters really fun with people trying to interact with dense forest elements.
This is a forest scene with a river quickly drawn onto the map. I then positioned 2 "embankment" terrain pieces, and it makes the whole scene rather more convincing IMHO. The embankments are done with play sand (fine, very even grain) for the brown "dirt" parts and construction sand (course, many different size/shape grains) for the green "grass" parts. I will be painting these pieces further. I kind of rushed them because I had a game.
Same as the last, but this time with MONSTERS!!
You can sort of see that I basepainted black and worked the color up with no less than 4 shades of drybrushing (3 for the rocks), but like I said, I rushed, so ended up doing some wet blending on accident (which actually did come out fairly well) and the final drybrush of shamrock green was super sloppy.
This is the "The Lava Tubes" dungeon tile set. Everything but the Lava technique (I'll discuss in a different pic) is from the 2.5D DM's Craft techniques invented by DM Scotty. Bottom entrance; top passage leads to "The Lava Grotto," a piece I haven't started on yet. The two lava tiles in the middle do connect, but only under the wall in either room, which would require swimming in lava. The pieces with lava on them don't have walls. This was originally a mistake I made on one of the tiles with lava, so I just carried it over and decided that that's the way lava tiles would be.
The topmost lava tile (small one, with a stone circle on it). will be hidden from the players until "if they get to the second stepping stone." The three stepping stones in the adjacent tile are just "south" of a 10' lava fall (which means the lava flows from the left side of the picture, bends "north", and the lavafall is somewhat nor by northwestish). There will be so much steam coming up that players will only be able to see what is down there if they are directly above it. There will of course be treasure, and they will of course be able to fairly easily jump down and get it, but what then I ask you? What then?
If I were to do these lava effects again, I would take more time drying. The technique is thus: Lay down your glue gun texture for like a river or something (messy) for wherever you want lava (cooled or fast moving), dries fast, but let it cool for at least 15 minutes. You'll go through several smaller glue sticks on a good sized area. Then, apply flexible modelling paste to the dried glue area (and any exposed cardboard) using a wider brush and a fair amount of material, and use a slapping, tapping motion to create little peaks and ripples with the texture (you'll see "it" start to happen, then just use "that" much paste over the tile). Let this completely dry (at least 4 hours). basecoat white, and follow DM Scotty's techniques to paint firey stuff, BUT at the end where you go over stuff with BLACK, do the VARNISHING FIRST (let it DRY first), and THEN do your black overcoat, the flat looks like cooled lava on top of the firey shiney lava. I DIDNT LET MY VARNISH DRY ENOUGH, so it looks kind of crappy, but you can see a few places where it's not so bad. I might end up repainting this whole tile set because i got one tile wet , soooo but yeah, that's how you do lava.
I mean, you just can't do this with dwarven forge or wargaming terrain. You just can't. Your move, "the entire tabletop industry."